There are a number of species of hardwood that are occasionally referred to as red sandalwood, including African Padauk (pterocarpus soyauxxi) and Camwood (baphia nitida). However, the true Red Sandalwood is pterocarpus santalinus, a small tree native to southeastern India. Historically known as red sanders, saunders wood, or santal wood, pterocarpus santalinus contains a strong red pigment called santalin in its heartwood. Santalin gives a brick-red dye on natural fibers, and during the Victorian era it was used by dyeing houses in Europe as an alternative to madder red. Today it is still used on a smaller scale to color pharmaceutical and cosmetic products—an alcohol tincture of Red Sandalwood will instantly dye anything it touches bright red.

Red Sandalwood is one of those complex dyestuffs that contains multiple pigments. There at least 5 in total, including the red santalin and various orange, violet, and brown pigments. To get a clear red out of Sandalwood the santalin has to be extracted from the wood and then applied at high heat. Unfortunately, santalin is mostly insoluble in water—indeed, the Victorians referred to it as one of the “insoluble reds.” Even in boiling water only about 10% of the available santalin will be extracted from the wood. Sandalwood can be simmered in a water dye bath like other natural dyes, but doing so is extremely inefficient. However, santalin is extremely soluble in ethanol, and soaking the wood powder in grain spirits will liberate up to 90% of the santalin; the difference in the dyebath is dramatic. We provide instructions for two ways of extracting the red, one using alcohol and one using an alkaline modifier, but the alcohol extraction is superior by far.

Red Sandalwood has an evocative name, a wonderful incense-like smell, and gives a beautiful brick red on correctly prepared fibers. The reason it is not more commonly used as a natural dye is that for most of the 20th century it was considered endangered and export of the heartwood was strictly controlled by the Indian government. Pterocarpus santalinus grows mostly in a single state—Andhra Pradesh—and it is highly vulnerable to forest fires and illegal logging for furniture and trinkets. In the 1950s the Indian government banned commercial harvesting of the species, and in 1994 it was designated “endangered” by the IUCN. However, the Indian government’s conservation measures have been successful, and in 2018 pterocarpus santalinus was removed from the endangered species list. Our Red Sandalwood comes from sanctioned forestry programs in Andhra Pradesh, and gives natural dyers an opportunity to experiment with a dye that has gone largely unused since the early 20th century.

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